Honor gunicorn access log format

When running under gunicorn, --access-logformat isn't honored.

There was some discussion of this in #389, but I didn't see an open issue for it.

[!IMPORTANT]

• We're using Polar.sh so you can upvote and help fund this issue.
• We receive the funding once the issue is completed & confirmed by you.
• Thank you in advance for helping prioritize & fund our backlog.